Cabo San Lucas to Hawaii, May 2015

Cabo San Lucas:   One Long Week 4/24 – 5/3

Cabo marina/zoo - world's largest (sloop-rigged) sailboat in center

Best laid plans waylay-ed! Our planned departure from Cabo was to be May 1, shortly after picking up our friend Doug, now also crew, on April 29. Our "weather router", Commander's Weather, had another recommendation: wait for May 4. The wind would be light for several days and from the NNW – we could sail close-hauled and wouldn't motor the first 600 miles consuming so much fuel at the start. We busied ourselves with the final provisioning of fresh food, mixed in with a few remaining boat chores, and made the most of a particular taco eatery plus finding a variety of other good choices. Why mess up the galley now? Some of the docks in Cabo were still completely pulled apart from last fall's Hurricane Odile. True North was in slip F-25, not far from the relentlessly blaring bad music surrounding the marina each night and until 3 AM! NO ESCAPE.

The quintessential Cabo dance club - El Squid Roe

Well, we did leave for a couple of fun daytime excursions. We took a panga out to the beach along the cabo. It is filled with boats anchored nearby and people playing on several beaches. The surf was too rough for making shore at the first landing so our skilled driver Jose found another beach landing. We spent a few hours sitting on the rocks alongside the beach with a cooler of cold beverages, swimming, sunning, people watching. Nice!

Cabo beach excursion

Another day we walked the beachfront out to a little cafe for lunch on the beach. Great change of scenery from being marina bound. Only one other cruiser on the dock, a sailboat about to bash back to San Francisco. Finally, Monday, May 4 arrived!

Cabo street vendor

First Week, Cabo to Hawaii May 4 – 10

Leaving Cabo - Anne and Doug with Lands End in background

We three were excited to be on our way! Left the marina at 0845 to find reasonably good wind 17-22 kts most of the first day, but from the NNW. The pattern would continue throughout much of the first week: bumpy, rolly seas of 4-6', with a high of 8', and a constant companion of cloud cover as far and wide as we could see. The wind fluctuated constantly with both direction and speed, seriously challenging our Hydrovane - “Heidi”. As the wind gradually moved N, we rigged the preventer for the main and added the reaching pole to keep our jib full and steady. Night watches came with cooler temperatures and no stars for most of the first week, just more clouds. Endless clouds! They concealed a brilliant full moon most of the time. Wasn't this passage supposed to be sun-filled? Five ships passed us, four at night and each clearly visible on AIS. The AIS alarm sounds when a vessel's CPA (closest point of approach) will be within 5 miles, good insurance during a possibly sleepy night watch. We keep a schedule of 4-hour watches around the clock. Besides watching for traffic, attentive eyes on changing wind and waves keeps us busy preventing luffing sails, banging sheets and errant lines. Add to that tending to Heidi to keep our COG on track.

Faithful Heidi the Hydrovane steering True North

Anne working on the main sail halyard

The lack of wildlife was noticeable after coming from the bountiful Sea of Cortez. Total sightings for the week: 5 birds (3 gulls, 2 swifts), 1 flying fish that made it topside (more later), and best of show was a lone turtle about 3' across which only our skipper was awake to see. Over the first three days, the wind jumped every which way between 12-22 kts on the bow, NNW-NNE for a mostly bumpy ride. The fifth day brought smoother seas and sunshine. We put the canvas back to enjoy the full sky under sail, and time together in the cockpit the way we had hoped it would be. Big smiles all around! With full sunlight the deep blue ocean glistens like a sea of star sapphires. As the wind very gradually increased briefly to 27 kts in the wee hours of the night, Gregg went out on the yawing deck, securely tethered, to add a second reef to the main. It don't gotta be fun to be fun! On day 7 we were flying the jib only with a steady 5.5-6 kts, wind abeam.

Flying fish museum

Towards the end of the first week, we three were finding our groove balancing watches, sleep, meals, free time and chores. Meals became more challenging to prepare between rolls and swells. Puttanesca! How about popcorn? Even with fiddles and gimbals, a pot of boiling water on our little stove is terrifying during a sudden jerk. We could ease the lurching by heaving to but with 2500 nm to cover, why delay. A celebratory dinner marked the end of our first week with one margarita each and a chicken dinner with vegetables, potatoes and specialty chocolate for dessert. Limes are now gone.

Jib-on-a-pole in cloudy weather

Second Week May 11 – 17

We left one week ago today. Happily, we check off the completion of a rockin', bumpy first week with great expectations of smoother days ahead. A big reward presents itself today: brilliant clear blue sky and sunshine with gentle swells and good wind on a beam reach. It is so clear we can see farther than imaginable. Later, night watch under an enormous, twinkling night sky. Gradually the sea of clouds takes over again the next night for pitch dark couple of nights.

Night watch, clouds and moon

May 15: Halfway! 133°50' at 1815. Celebrated by making an apple walnut cake and at the precise time of reaching the mark, we each had a special treat of a Pacifico with appetizers. More happiness: a pod of ~30 white sided Pacific dolphins swam along starboard this morning. Wildlife, at last!

Celebrating end of Week One

At times it is hard to grasp the enormity of the ocean. We sail along contentedly in our little floating home – except that we long for a walk around the block now and then! In the beginning, especially when we were being tossed around we were more likely to run through all the “what ifs” but not so much any more. We've settled in contentedly: sturdy boat, congenial crew, and favorable weather. The last is the biggie. We've been able to successfully download weather and grib files via the satellite phone and they concur with a report sent to us from Commander's Weather each week via the Delorme InReach. Plus, a few friends with watchful eyes also send us info. It's been a little surprising not to have been pushed along by trade winds coming from behind but at least we've had a consistent beam reach much of the way with a NNE wind. Sail trim is easy enough and we're moving along but it will be smoother when the ever elusive easterly arrives. The wind waves are gustier, lunging the crew at times into the nearest hard surface and each other.

Doug contemplating Cincinnati Chili

We had a rigging failure this morning, now resolved, thanks to a tiny piece of hardware found in our spare parts container, plus gorilla tape. It wasn't the exact piece we needed but served the purpose. The whisker pole had become unattached from the boom during the night, fortunately getting hung up snugly in the neatly coiled lines directly below and not hitting the deck! A tiny piece of the mounting had dislodged and was apparently flung to sea. We were initially quite bummed out with thoughts of sailing without the pole just as the winds would be veering east. Thankfully, ingenuity came to the rescue.

Pizza night

Marking the end of the second week on the water, we celebrated over dinner with fresh from the oven baking powder biscuits. A huge mess on the galley floor was avoided just in time as our skillet, brimming with chicken á la king, lunged to create a smaller mess á la stovetop. Lesson learned: engage the gimbals before that happens.

Third Week May 18-25

It's the beginning of the 3^rd week! A new day dawns clear overhead with clouds ringing the waterline all around except from where the sun will soon be rising. We are at 139°20' as I begin morning watch, only 40' from the 140° W mark we've been waiting for because it is the approximate location where the downwinder easterlies should take over, pushing us gently to Hawaii's shores. It's been bumpy to date, no doubt about it and more so than we expected. A tanker passed by 4.5 nm to starboard, first ship in 10 days.

One of may fabulous sunsets

There was a sudden wind change during night to NW. Later, a short period of easterlies. Heidi kept us exactly on course. Next morning... are those threatening ENE clouds coming our way? They didn't. A smooth day allowed the galley bakery to open: hot muffins coming up!

Muffin factory

May 20, Day 16: Okay, here's the bare truth for today: no happy passage stories of twinkling stars, etc. We need sleep! (Note: except Doug who sleeps through anything.) The sea these last 48 hours has been very lumpy and larger. Nothing we can't handle but certainly not the idyllic Mexico-Hawaii smooth run we expected by now. We've been through two short blows under ominous skies since yesterday, mostly wind and light showers. Thankfully, no lightning. It is somewhat exhilarating if you take away the worry factor but on a dark night it is difficult to see and what if...? This morning, Commander's Weather (CW) sent a message to go south to avoid squalls and a cold front. Would have appreciated an earlier message, but no harm done. Maybe a gust or two of 38 kt winds at night isn't worth notification! Looks like we're heading directly into another one. To the oven with the electronics just in case there's lightning. We changed our course SSW to avoid that cold front and its thunderstorms. The day redeemed itself by noon so that we trimmed the sails for wing on wing, a NE wind directly behind for much smoother sailing through the rest of the day and into the next.

True North sailing wing on wing

The next night and all the following day were smooth and glorious, a dreamy kind of passage that encourages lounging around the cockpit. Mid afternoon the wind changed necessitating a port tack – the first tack change since leaving Cabo. A very light 4-10 kt wind the following day with boat speed dwindling below 3 kts made the skipper and crew restless. It's time to fly the spinnaker or we will never reach Hawaii.

Flying the spinnaker in very light winds

May 22: A new message from CW indicates the cold front north of us is weakening so we are returning to the shorter, more northerly route between Oahu and Molokai. Due to the change, all previous bets among us for ETA with a prized Mai-Tai for the winner are now off. Meanwhile, an unfamiliar sudden “boat” noise caught our attention: it's our fishing reel! We finally caught a fish! A big, beautiful dorado was fighting to get away but we won and brought it aboard. Such colors! After a brief photo shoot we let the beauty go. None of us wanted to do the deed and besides, fifteen pounds is a lot of fish for three. We hove to while bringing in our fish and found it the perfect opportunity for a refreshing, brief swim in the Pacific right here: 20º31.2', 148º30.4'!

Anne with her dorado - at last!

Swimming while hove-to

Taking advantage of calm seas to top up diesel tanks

May 23: What a night and day! We lost our wind and what little we had was on our bow. We motored all night long rather than wallow in the dark. The morning wind was still very light. So disappointing! Where are the following trades? The sea was flat! Gregg made a delicious fritatta for breakfast, served with freshly baked bread, consolation of sorts. By noon we were eager for a change so we put up the sails and turned north for a little sailing with 10-12 kts, then tacked to bring us back towards our course, a most pleasant diversion for the early afternoon. Once back on course we motored until the late afternoon when huge clouds overhead brought a wild NW wind which eventually settled into the high teens for the rest of the night and next morning. It was a lumpy night at sea but we were at least making progress under sail towards the mark which was far preferable to motoring.

From the True North bakery!

May 24: An enjoyable day sailing with large, gentle swells and sun marked the end of the third week. Doug baked brownies and Gregg made dinner: curried chicken with rice. Super results, guys! The night was very calm with a bright orange quarter moon leaving a wide well-lit path before us as we continued just north of it and westward. Night visibility was superb under the clear sky, making for an enjoyable night watch with the companionship of familiar constellations. Gregg took a sighting on Polaris with the sextant during his watch and went through the calculations to get our latitude. Accuracy to 6 minutes, and his next sight was down to only 2 1/2 minutes error!

Doug serving out the terrific Ghiradeli brownies

May 26: Land ho! We're closing the gap! This morning's first light provided a glimpse of Maui to our south, then Molokai. We can see the faintest outline of Oahu in the distance off our port bow. We're already discussing first beverage and meal possibilities. For now, a leisurely evening to celebrate our final night on the water before making landfall tomorrow morning. Yay!

May 27: We were abeam of Diamond Head at 0900, 23 days after leaving Cabo. We took our time in the harbor, enjoying another hour or so sailing leisurely while soaking up splendid views from the water of Waikiki and Diamond Head, reflecting on the past few weeks, grateful for a safe, fabulous passage. John and Ivy from the Hawaii YC were on the dock to greet us and take our lines. Mahalo! Next stop, an icy cold beverage at the YC. All hands are now on land and ready to explore Oahu!

Diamond Head - we're getting close!

True North, Doug, Anne, and Gregg at Hawaii Yacht Club

Sailing in the Sea of Cortez, April 5 - 19

As the Sea of Cortez begins to warm up in April, the inviting anchorages become even more attractive for swimming and snorkeling. We left the marina on Easter Sunday for Isla Espiritu Santo and Ensenada del Candelaro for the first night of a two week shakedown cruise. The goal: find wind to check out the new hydrovane. We would make a large circle tour, stopping at a few new anchorages along the way. Monday brought only a light breeze of 5-8 kts. We deployed the hydrovane with the jib for an easy downwind sail towards Ensenada Grande. So far it's easy. Adjust the upper cord to move to starboard or lower cord for port and keep an eye on our course! The dazzling turquoise water in Ensenada Grande was deliciously refreshing. A couple of friendly guys from the catamaran charter next to us paddled over on their boards to bring us a couple of icy cold Pacificos and hopped up for a visit...welcome aboard!

Ahh, back in The Islands!

There was no wind the following day. We motored NW to Isla San Francisco where even under cloudy skies it presented an inviting scene with its rocky ridgeline hike and crescent sandy beach.

The white sand beach at Isla San Franciso

It was predictably busy with cruisers. We left the following morning to sail around NE Isla San Francisco, first checking out another anchorage on the north end, then sailing around the upper end of the island. We anchored just off Isla Coyote, a tiny rocky island with a picturesque village of a half dozen houses along a rocky hillside. Pablo helped pull our dinghy ashore and welcomed us to roam their village. 

Pablo helping us with the dinghy

Three men worked intently at the waterfront fish station cleaning rays they caught which would be salted and dried in the sun for tacos, but they had no fish to sell. 

Cleaning Rays, Isla Coyote

Ladies at a house near the hilltop brought out their colorful shell necklaces to conduct business with us. We did our part to support their community with the purchase of three: one with emerald green cord threaded through small shells and two for Gregg's sisters, red beads and purple, each with a single shell in the center.

Hillside houses, Isla Coyote

We stayed in the anchorage for lunch, then as the wind picked up left for the short ride to Bahia Amortajada on Isla San Jose. We anchored in Punta Salinas in the north end to avoid the buggy jejenes from the lagoon and mangrove channels. Instead, we got the bees! They flock to boats in search of fresh water. We chased them out of the boat, put in the screens, and at sunset they left.

Relic of salt pond operations, Bahia Amortajada

On the 8^th, we received a message from Hallberg-Rassy in Sweden: the engine pump we needed had been shipped, scheduled to arrive in La Paz on the 21^st, and Rob would install on the 22^nd. It's impressive that we can receive this pump from Sweden which is unavailable earlier from any U.S. source. Now we breathe a little easier knowing it is on the way.

We sailed across Canal de San Jose to tuck into the more secluded north cove at San Evaristo, a small fishing village we had visited on earlier sails. New to the village is a super friendly family run Mexican restaurant with superb catch of the day dinners, reasonably priced. We hung out a second day, met some new cruisers in the anchorage and introduced them the following evening to the Mexican restaurant. Hopefully, it will survive!

At the restaurant, San Evaristo

An easy sail 28 nm N brought us to Los Gatos, a favorite anchorage nestled in red, smooth sandstone rocks. Oh! We caught (and released) a fish along the way. Unfortunately, the line was still in the water when we reversed while setting the anchor, fouling the prop. Gregg stepped up to the task of diving the prop to cut out dozens of feet of tangled line. We lost the lure. As happened on two other visits, we could not set the anchor in the shallow inner cove, and anchored out in the main lobe of the anchorage.  There we had a bombproof "Rocna set", and knew we would sleep easily.  Good thing! The rest of the evening was peacefully spent climbing on the rocks to the cross on top and over to the other ridge with wide expansive views. 

Hiking Puerto Los Gatos

Puerto Los Gatos - Chubasco brewing to the south

Once back at the boat the wind began to blow from the NW and a few dark clouds moved in. A chubasco was headed our way. Translation: a violent squall accompanied by lightning, thunder, rain, and high wind and one had settled over the area for the night. Winds rose to 40 kts with lightning and thunder just a couple of seconds apart and we were the only boat – and shiny metal mast – in the anchorage. We stashed the electronics in the oven for safekeeping, fortunately dodging that danger. An anchorage at night always seems smaller, the hazards more frightening. Gregg looked out once during a lightning flash:

As I looked out the rocking boat, a lightning flash lit up the entire sky.  There were black clouds, grey clouds, and brilliantly lit white clouds silhouetting the jagged black ridge above the anchorage.  To the east, ominous black sea was peppered with whitecaps rolling into the anchorage, and spray shot into the air from waves breaking over the reef.  It was a scene from hell, and we were in it. I wanted my mommy.

At dawn after a sleepless night, the lightning stopped but the wind direction changed, now a force coming from the east blowing towards shore. We pulled the anchor and quickly got the heck out of there.

Puerto Escondido, 30 nm to the north, made a huge improvement to their anchorage after Odile by installing hefty mooring balls. We easily tied into one for the night.

Snagging a mooring in Puerto Escondido

We've grown to like this place for its magnificent backdrop, the towering, colorful Los Gigantes. There are also good cruiser amenities of showers, laundromat, a new restaurant and the Tripui Resort with its own nice restaurant a short walk down the road, but it's not an anchorage that invites a jump in the water.

The next couple of days were calm enough to anchor outside Loreto, 14 nm north and always a favorite stop. 

Gregg on the boat anchored at Loreto

The night silhouette of the mountain backdrop above town is spectacular! The town is charming with a central, tree-lined walkway, a peaceful malecon along the waterfront, provisioning easy enough, and wifi at the Ole Cafe. We met up with Resolution's amiable friend Abby for a welcome late afternoon cold refreshment at Mediterraneo.

Mission in Loreto

But...another night of excitement was coming up! We were to sail around the north end of Isla San Jose and anchor on the SE side so that we would be protected from the northerlies that had been forecast. But the winds were not from the north; they came forcefully from the south. We took refuge in V Cove for the night, aka El Refugio, on the north end of Isla Carmen, a beautiful spot for one or two boats with limestone rock caves lining each side of the waters' edge with a small sandy beach at the V.

Refuge from southerly in V-Cove, beach at point of V

When the anchor alarm sounded at 0230, we took a look around to find the wind had indeed switched to the NW and we had swung around the anchor, strong winds blowing towards shore. We watched and waited until 0330, pulled the anchor with the bow porpoising wildly and wind howling in the high 20s. I got a decent soaking while pulling up the anchor but we left otherwise uneventfully and headed out to sea. It is the first time we have ever left an anchorage during the night. After getting “out there”, it was better by far. As we safely cleared Punta Lobos and headed downwind we rolled out the jib and cruised along comfortably.  At dawn, we re-deployed the jib with whisker pole and “Heidi”, our new hydrovane, and sailed downwind for the next 16 hours towards Ensenada Grande. Wind from the NW varied from 15-27 kts all the way directly astern. It shifted to port just as we raised the mainsail with the second reef making the increase in speed negligible. When we took the mainsail down, we gained speed and flew at 5.5 kts. It was a good sailing day! 

Heidi (red vane) steering True North

We had left Isla Carmen behind, passed east of Isla Danzante and Isla Monseratte, west of Isla Santa Catalina, then east of Isla Santa Cruz, and Isla San Diego. While sailing east of Isla San Jose night fell, and passing east of Isla San Francisco we saw anchor lights twinkling in the distance. Next, we passed Isla Islotes to port, then our destination just ahead, Isla Partida. Shortly before arriving we started the engine, spotted six anchor lights in the southern lobe of Ensenada Grande, and anchored successfully in the middle lobe in total darkness at 0130, the only boat there. It was with gentle sighs that we greeted familiar territory, anchoring right on top of Shawn and Heather's waypoint BCS 182. We stayed three nights, swam and roamed the beach to find a most unique treasure, a translucent paper nautilus, before returning to Costabaja on Sunday.

Paper nautilus shell from Ensenada Grande

It was hard to pull ourselves away from so stunning a cove.

True North the only boat in Ensenada Grande II (middle lobe)

Back at Costabaja, we found ourselves deep in departure chores. Our Seattle friend Marcia stopped by for a welcome visit while on a road trip with her three sisters...thanks, girls! You made our day!

Marcia and her three sisters

Another bright event was that our engine maintenance was successfully completed. 

The offending circulation pump dripping coolant, taken out and replaced by Rob Cross

With that good news, we took off on the evening shuttle for a peaceful evening in La Paz. 

On the Malecon, La Paz

Over the next couple of days we said our good-byes to cruiser friends. Each has added to a memorable experience. 

You never really leave a place you've been. Part of it you take with you leaving part of you behind.

Tomorrow we leave for Cabo where our adventurous friend Doug will join us as crew for the jump to Hawaii, scheduled for May 1, and pending the go-ahead from Commander's Weather. It is time...vamonos!

True North in La Paz - March 14 to April 4

Mid-March brought us back to La Paz, this time a staging area for preparing True North for the offshore passage from Mexico to Hawaii May 1, pending a good weather clearance. It is hotter than normal for April and still too early to know if this might affect the normal May weather patterns.

Just after arrival in La Paz, True North was scheduled for a haul-out to the Bercovich boat yard next door.

Gregg replacing ventilators in the boat yard

For the 4-day haul-out we had decided to tough it out and stay overnight on the boat but then 4 days became 8 as some keel blisters were repaired which required additional drying time.

Anne climbs the ladder while floodlights dry keel blisters

So the first week we were live-aboards in a dusty waterfront boat yard with 3 large growling dogs guarding the gate. Fortunately, we immediately made friends with Vicente, the night guard, who kept the attack dogs in check whenever we entered and Gregg quite naturally charmed Negro, the huge shepherd.

Negro guards our boat just before charging Anne

Well, not so bad. The Costabaja infinity pool was just a 15-minute walk away, along with socializing with some of our dock mates from last year. The bottom job was finished and well-done!

The Costabaja infinity pool, relaxation after a hot day of boat work

Gregg has been vigilant in attacking projects: analyzing, organizing, doing and finding the right people to work with us. Since returning to the marina, we've had a hydrovane installed which will keep us on course using only wind power, had the wires rerouted for the solar panel so they go directly outside rather than across our bed and out the porthole, sails and rigging checked, the through-hulls and also the engine. 

Gregg helping to install the Hydrovane

We are working with a most thorough engine guy, Rob from Cross Marine, who unfortunately found that we need to replace the coolant pump.

Coolant pump above crankshaft pulley.  Yes, the entire front of engine needs to come off!

It is only available from Sweden and will not be available until later in April. In the meantime, all of Mexico is celebrating Semana Santa! The Malecon in La Paz is bustling with festivities. We will leave Easter Sunday for a week on the water to check out the hydrovane and also the latest and greatest addition for us: a salt water faucet was added to the galley, as well as a conversion to salt water flush so our fresh water supply will be greatly extended. 

Salt water faucet on right

Following our return and the engine repair, we will go out for another shakedown sail around the nearby islands before leaving for Cabo and Hawaii. Check out these improvements!

The Hydrovane nears completion

Loreto to La Paz

Loreto to La Paz:  November 21 - December 1

The final leg of the Fall season found us gradually making our way farther south from Loreto to La Paz. We picked up enthusiastic and skilled boater pals Ginger and Gary in Loreto, motored on to Puerto Escondido for a couple of nights and then Agua Verde where we waited out our third Norther for three full days and nights. After a first rolly night, we moved our boat a little farther north in the anchorage and off the smaller beach which provided opportunities for shore excursions, even as the wind howled and waves were building in the sea beyond the anchorage.

Gary and Ginger flank The Skipper (that's a radome behind me, not earmuffs!)

During the calmer mornings we took the dinghy ashore to stretch and explore.There is one small house on this beach inhabited by a most cordial, friendly faced man, Jose.

Jose sports the SSAPS Burgee

When we asked for directions to the cave paintings he drew a map in the sand of our destination, about 40 minutes away. We followed the trail to a small, ramshackle cemetery with age-old dates.

Cemetery at Agua Verde

Farther along, we hiked through a dried arroyo full of large old crooked palms that looked as if it had been ravaged by many flash floods, in search of cave paintings.

Hiking in the Palm Arroyo

Somewhere we lost the trail and gave up. Over the course of our three days a couple of camper families shared the beach with Jose. They had to brave a long, steep, narrow rocky road full of deep potholes to get to the beach and watching them from the water confirmed that we would rather travel to this place by boat.

Agua Verde - a good place to wait out a Norther

On the morning of our fourth day in Agua Verde, feeling certain the Norther was well on its way out and with reassurance from the daily weather report we headed out to sea to check it out for ourselves. We were ready to move on. We expected confused seas in the aftermath of the Norther and we sure got them, along with big rollers.

With wind astern, we put up the sails for a very rolly sail 18 nm south to Los Gatos. Consensus of the crew was that the waves topped out about 10', and steep, not to mention confused - the infamous Sea of Cortez "herd of white buffalos"!  We arrived tat Los Gatos o find a group of kayakers camped on the beach, dropped the anchor in gusty wind but found it way too rolly. We pulled the anchor to continue just 3 nm around the point to Timbabiche for the night where the anchorage was much calmer. One lone panga was nearby with two fishermen setting their nets in the fading light of sunset.

Pangueros fishing at Timbabiche

They stopped by to ask if we'd like to buy fish...definitely! We certainly weren't catching any. We gave them our request for one kilo of red snapper and that is what Roberto and Santos brought the next morning at 7 am, filleted and ready to cook later that night for Thanksgiving dinner.

Bringing the red snapper aboard

With fish in the fridge, we left for Isla San Francisco, finding the seas much calmer than the day before. The jib was deployed with the reaching pole (note to self: no shortcuts with the pole!) for a smooth but fast downwind sail, arriving at the anchorage 35 nm south late in the afternoon.

Lazy, fun sailing - pole out, no mainsail, smooth seas, 6+ kts!

The dinghy was launched for a leisurely shore walk in the evening light.

Isla San Francisco in evening light

The shore excursion was followed by a most superb Thanksgiving dinner - fresh from the sea that morning!

A very happy Thanksgiving!

Next day we hiked the high hill and red rocks above the bay for expansive views of the anchorage below. It was Gregg's birthday!

Near the summit of Gregg's birthday hike

He was reminded of it first thing in the morning by a chorus of “Happy Birthday” initiated by Ginger and Gary. He and Ginger added snorkeling to the day's activities, returning with colorful photos of a surprising variety of sea life that is almost unimaginable from above water. Later we cooked the real chicken for the birthday dinner plus a freshly baked apple cake.

After two nights at Isla San Francisco we motored all the way to Isla Los Islotes with the wind on our nose, although the wind died steadily as we proceeded.  It was 17 nm across the sea where there is a sea lion colony. It is a deep anchorage and crowded with boats and snorkelers but was calm enough for Ginger and me to swim with the sea lions while Gregg and Gary stayed aboard circling the anchorage. The big ones are huge and they swim swiftly around snorkelers; the little ones are even cute!

Ginger and Anne snorkeling at Los Islotes

From there we motored on to Ensenada Grande to our anchorage for the night. This is one beautiful cove! Red rock bluffs line the head with two sandy beaches on each side of the bluffs. We took off in the dinghy to the larger beach where Fun Baja was packing up from a day's beach picnic. They had a large gas powered refrigerator on the beach so we naturally checked to see if we might purchase a cerveza fria but they had none. Then my eye spotted a piece of the creamiest looking chocolate cake that one of the guides was eating. A piece for us, too? They had no plates so placed a big slice in my hand for us to share. We hiked a short trail and on returning to the beach were presented with the rest of the cake to take with us! Postre muy fino!

Anne takes possession of the precious chocolate cake!

We spent a leisurely morning soaking in the beauty of Ensenada Grande with its pristine beaches and inviting clear water.

Ensenada Grande

It was only 3 nm miles to our next stop Ensenada del Candelaro, another favorite anchorage because of the colorful reef fish surrounding the large Roco Monumento at the entrance. We anchored, lunched, and took the dinghy over to snorkel around the rock.

Snorkel site on Roca Monumento

There were many kinds of smaller brightly colored reef fish but we also spotted several crown of thorns eating away at the coral. It was alarming to see them there because they can destroy entire brilliant reefs leaving behind dead gray coral. Then the fish disappear.

Sea star eating its way through coral

Later we took the dinghy to shore to check out the two beaches, one with a row of white canvas tents,  the other with a crowd of noisy pelicans. The evening light on the red rocks was brilliant! The rocks were full with gulls, pelicans, and a few blue footed boobies. A band of high rocks separate the two beaches and Gregg and I climbed through an opening to get to the tent beach to see what might be going on over there. A group of Mexican outdoor adventure tour guides from Todo Santos were in training for the coming season and among them, Belinda from REI adventure travel in Seattle. We made easy conversation talking Baja adventures. Meanwhile one of the trainers scooted up to us with a big smile and two Margaritas...in real stem glasses with the blue rim...right out there on the beach! Great karma! Chocolate cake procured from last night's beach stop and Margaritas tonight.

Roca Monument and True North at sunset

This was a last serene night on the water before returning to La Paz the next day, sailing with a super brisk wind and one grand grey whale spy-hopping along the way. In the background the dramatic sailing vessel M5, largest sailing sloop in the world at 246', was clocking 16 kts under full sail. 

Cruising on in to Marina Costabaja in La Paz

We savor the moments that sailing in these beautiful waters brings - the camaraderie, the serenity and spirit of adventure. This time was no different. Until next Spring...adios!